Sean Doherty is a Senior Writer at Surfing World Magazine
Cruising in the car down to Duranbah, Jack Freestone’s pulling apart the blackness in the world, the physical and the metaphysical, incredulous at how it can even, you know, like, happen. “Like, what the hell is cancer? Who could even dream up a disease where your body eats itself?” Jack accentuates the positive, and right now he’s certainly got a lot to be buzzed about – a couple of Junior World Titles, a starring role in Cluster, Alana Blanchard, and finally, it seems, an overdue spot on the world tour waiting for him at the end of the year.
Photo by Macfarlane
As the tattoo says on his arm, “No Dream To Big” (nor apparently any spell check to available). His sunny disposition continues walking down the beach at D-Bah. He’s talking about Hawaii and he’s talking about surfboards and he’s talking about love. He paddles out against the breakwall, and on his first wave gets garrotted by a fishing line, the old geezer having cast straight in front of him then wildly jigging the rod thinking he’s hooked a fish.
Jack untangles himself then paddles back out.
Then he gets dropped in on.
Then someone gets in his way.
The place is packed.
You can almost see him fighting it.
No, no, no.
He won’t let this kill his vibe, because Jack knows that once you take out the dark bits, there’s as much sunshine out there as you could ever want.
Read Full Article – coastalwatch.com